Ratanakiri Province
Ratanakiri is a province in northeastern Cambodia that borders Laos to the north, Vietnam to the east, Mondulkiri Province to the south, and Stung Treng Province to the west. The province extends from the mountains of the Annamite Range in the north, across a hilly plateau between the Tonle San and Tonle Srepok rivers, to tropical deciduous forests in the south. In recent years, logging and mining have scarred Ratanakiri's environment, long known for its beauty.
For over a millennium, Ratanakiri has been occupied by the highland Khmer Loeu people, who are a minority elsewhere in Cambodia. During the region's early history, its Khmer Loeu inhabitants were exploited as slaves by neighboring empires. The slave trade economy ended during the French colonial era, but a harsh Khmerization campaign after Cambodia's independence again threatened Khmer Loeu ways of life. The Khmer Rouge built its headquarters in the province in the 1960s, and bombing during the Vietnam War devastated the region. Today, rapid development in the province is altering traditional ways of life.
Ratanakiri is sparsely populated; its 150,000 residents make up just over 1% of the country's total population. Residents generally live in villages of 20 to 60 families and engage in subsistence shifting agriculture. Ratanakiri is among the least developed provinces of Cambodia. Its infrastructure is poor, and the local government is weak. Health indicators in Ratanakiri are extremely poor, and almost one in four children die before reaching the age of five. Education levels are also low; three quarters of the population is illiterate.
Administrative divisions
District | Communes | Population (1998) |
Andoung Meas | 6,896 | |
Banlung | 16,999 | |
Bar Kaev | 11,758 | |
Koun Mom | 8,814 | |
Lumphat | 10,301 | |
Ou Chum | 11,863 | |
Ou Ya Dav | 10,898 | |
Ta Veaeng | 4,325 | |
Veun Sai | 12,389 |
Banlung City of Ratanakiri
Banlung City is the provincial capital of Ratanakiri Province in Cambodia’s mountainous northeastern corner. Heavily jungled and home to 12 different ‘Khmer Loeu’ ethnic minority groups, Ratanakiri province has a real edge-of-the-world feel to it. Most visitors to Ratanakiri base themselves in Banlung City from where they make excursions/treks to Khmer Loeu villages and jungle areas, waterfalls, gem mines, and Ratanakiri’s famous Yeak Laom volcanic lake. The city of Banlung is fairly small but offers some interesting shopping and a few decent hotels.
About Two km from Banlung
-|-Getting to Banlung
Overland from Phnom Penh There are two main legs to the trip, Phnom Penh to Stung Treng and then Stung Treng to Banlung. The first leg usually requires a ferry ride for part of the way in order to bypass the extremely bad road between Kratie and Stung Treng. Either: 1) Take a taxi (2 hours, 8000 riel) or ferry (15,000 riel) to Kampong Cham, and then take a ferry from Kampong Cham to Stung Treng (9 hours, $15), or; 2) Take a taxi (5 hours, 13000 riel) or ferry (5 hours, 30,000 riel) to Kratie, and then take a ferry from Kratie to Stung Treng (5 hours, $7). Once in Stung Treng take a shared taxi or truck from Stung Treng to Banlung (25,000 riel, 3.5 hours in the dry season. 5-10 hours in the wet season.
-|-Getting Around
Motorcycle taxi (motodup), rental motorcycle and bicycle are the primary ways of getting around town and the immediate area. Motodups run 500 – 1500 riel almost anywhere in town and $7-$10 for the whole day (limited to the area around Banlung.) Good English speakers that also act as guides may charge more. A motodup from the airport to town is about 1000 riel.
For motorcycle or bicycle rental, it is easiest to ask at your guesthouse or hotel. 100cc motorcycles are $5/day. There are very few 250cc bikes to rent in town but your hotel can probably find one for you. Bicycle rental is $1/day. There is also a bicycle rental shop near the monument in the center of town. Rental prices of trucks and 4WDs begin around $30-$40/day.
The repair shop just west of the central monument is the only place in town that can service big bikes.
-|-Banks and Money
There are no banks or ATMs. No place in town accepts credit cards, though most of the hotels exchange currency and accept traveler’s checks. Moneychangers are located on the road in from of Phsar Banlung.
-|-Internet and Telephones
Internet is slow and expensive but it is available and does work well enough for e-mail and limited surfing. There is an Internet shop in the office with Royal Phnom Penh Airways opposite Phsar Banlung, and the Tribal Hotel also offers Internet access. $5/hour.
International calls run from $1.30 – $1.70 per minute. Buy an ‘Access card’ for $5, $10, or $20 at the phone shop near the market. Use the card to make international calls either their at the phone shop or from the landline phone at most hotels.
-|-What to Buy
Semi-precious gems and Khmer Loeu handicrafts and artifacts are Banlung’s main souvenir offerings. The handicrafts are uniquely authentic – as likely made for use by local people as for the souvenir market – ‘back-strap baskets’, fabrics, gourd vessels, gongs and more. There is one souvenir shop in town located in the first row of shops in front of Phsar Banlung. The gem and drink shops on the corner next to the central monument have a few souvenirs, especially gourd vessels and baskets. Terres Rouges Lodge has just opened a boutique offering handicrafts and Cambodian silks.
Semi-precious gems mined in Ratanakiri (primarily amethyst, zircon, peridot and obsidian), are cut and polished in Banlung and sold as unset gems. Gem cutting/retail shops dot the main road and market area, and there is a cluster of shops near the central monument. Look for the distinctive glass display cases lined with bare yellow light bulbs. Know something about gems before you buy very much.
-|-Markets and Shopping
The main market, Phsar Banlung, is a relatively unextraordinary traditional market offering the usual range of items for local consumption. There is one souvenir shop in front of the market, and food stalls set up in front of the market in the evening. . For most travelers’ needs (soft drinks, water, beer, liquor, toiletries, snacks, souvenirs, etc.), the small drink shops next to the monument in the center of town carry most everything.
Ka Tieng & Cha Ong Waterfall
Ka Tieng Waterfall
KaTieng waterfall is located in Labang I commune, Lum Phat district, about 7 kilometers southeast of Ban Loung provincial town. Ka Ting is below Ka Chhanh waterfall and about 3 kilometers from it.
Cha Ong Waterfall
CHA Ong waterfall is in the forest in Cha Ong village, O’Chum commune, about 2 kilometers west of Ban Loung provincial town. It was given its name by the Kreung hill tribe living nearby.
The waterfall gets its water from Phnom Eysei Patamak or Phnom Svay near Ban Loung provincial town from its upper level, the water flows from a small canal before dropping 25 meters to a lower level. A mountain slop leads visitors to the bottom of the waterfall, where they can sit inside a cave and enjoy the view.
Ka Chanh waterfall is located in Ka Chanh commune, Ban Loung district, about 6 kilometers southeast of Ban Loung provincial town. The waterfall is 12 meters high and is fed year round by the O’Kan Teung canal.
From the waterfall the water flows into Sre Pork River in Lum Phat district. The waterfall was given its name by the Kreung ethnic minority in Ka Chanh village.
There are a number of scenic rubber plantations along the canal leading to the waterfall. The base of the waterfall, which is a lovely place for picnic, can be reached by climbing down are also available.
Beung Yeak laom
Beung Yeak Laom is located in Yeak Laom commune, Ban Loung district, about 5 kilometers south of Ban Loung provincial town. A lake in the middle of a mountain, it was formed many centuries ago
from volcano. The lake is about 800 meters in diameter and 48 meters deep during about dry season. The water is clear and suitable for swimming.
There are two places along the bank where visitors can relax and enjoy a place a panoramic view of the lake and the flora and fauna. A tourist information made by hill tribes living nearby are available for sale.
Beung Yeak Laom is a place of worship for the hill tribes. They believe there is a powerful spirit who owns the surrounding land and forest. Beung Yeak Laom is popular with tourists who like to swim or hike in the forest surrounding ring along their own food and beverages.
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